Baby Elephant Amigurumi crochet pattern

IntermediateUS TermsIn the Round

A chubby grey baby elephant, about 5.7 inches (145 mm) tall and 8.5 inches from trunk to tail, with two big flat ears, a trunk that ends in a rounded bulb, stout legs with separate foot pads, cream eye rims and a small tail tuft in a darker grey. The head and body are one stuffed piece worked in a continuous spiral of single crochet. The trunk, ears, legs, feet and tail are made separately and sewn on, so you can set the ears and the trunk to give your elephant its own expression. It is made from 16 simple stuffed shapes; the four foot pads are the only fiddly part.

Materials

Yarn

WORSTED · Soft grey · 119yd

WORSTED · Cream · 2yd

WORSTED · Slate grey · 2yd

Hook

4mm

Notions

1x Stitch marker

1x Yarn needle

Polyester fiberfill

Gauge

10 sts × 10 rows = 5cm × 4.3cm (in single crochet, worked tight enough that the stuffing does not show through)

Stitches Used

mr = Magic Ring
sc = Single Crochet
inc = Increase
dec = Decrease

Pattern

Head and body

2036 stitches. The base piece, closed at the end. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc, inc) ×6(18 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×2, inc) ×6(24 sts)
R5R5: (sc ×5, inc) ×4(28 sts)
R6R6: (sc ×6, inc) ×4(32 sts)
R7R7: (sc ×7, inc) ×4(36 sts)
R8R8: (sc ×11, inc) ×3(39 sts)
R9R9: (sc ×12, inc) ×3(42 sts)
R10R10: sc ×41, inc(43 sts)
R11R11: sc ×42, inc(44 sts)
R12R12: sc ×44(44 sts)
R13R13: sc ×44(44 sts)
R14R14: (sc ×21, inc) ×2(46 sts)
R15R15: (sc ×22, inc) ×2(48 sts)
R16R16: sc ×47, inc(49 sts)
R17R17: sc ×48, inc(50 sts)
R18R18: sc ×49, inc(51 sts)
R19R19: sc ×51(51 sts)
R20R20: sc ×51(51 sts)
R21R21: sc ×49, dec(50 sts)
R22R22: sc ×50(50 sts)
R23R23: sc ×49, inc(51 sts)
R24R24: sc ×51(51 sts)
R25R25: sc ×50, inc(52 sts)
R26R26: sc ×51, inc(53 sts)
R27R27: sc ×53(53 sts)
R28R28: sc ×52, inc(54 sts)
R29R29: sc ×54(54 sts)
R30R30: sc ×52, dec(53 sts)
R31R31: sc ×53(53 sts)
R32R32: sc ×53(53 sts)
R33R33: sc ×53(53 sts)
R34R34: sc ×53(53 sts)
R35R35: sc ×51, dec(52 sts)
R36R36: sc ×52(52 sts)
R37R37: sc ×50, dec(51 sts)
R38R38: sc ×49, dec(50 sts)
R39R39: sc ×48, dec(49 sts)
R40R40: sc ×47, dec(48 sts)
R41R41: (sc ×10, dec) ×4(44 sts)
R42R42: (sc ×9, dec) ×4(40 sts)
R43R43: (sc ×8, dec) ×4(36 sts)
R44R44: (sc ×10, dec) ×3(33 sts)
R45R45: (sc ×9, dec) ×3(30 sts)
R46R46: (sc ×3, dec) ×6(24 sts)
R47R47: (sc ×2, dec) ×6(18 sts)
R48R48: (sc, dec) ×6(12 sts)
R49R49: dec ×6(6 sts)

Left ear

440 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×2, inc) ×4(16 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×3, inc) ×4(20 sts)
R5R5: (sc ×9, inc) ×2(22 sts)
R6R6: (sc ×10, inc) ×2(24 sts)
R7R7: (sc ×7, inc) ×3(27 sts)
R8R8: (sc ×8, inc) ×3(30 sts)
R9R9: sc ×29, inc(31 sts)
R10R10: sc ×31(31 sts)
R11R11: sc ×31(31 sts)
R12R12: sc ×29, dec(30 sts)
R13R13: sc ×28, dec(29 sts)
R14R14: sc ×27, dec(28 sts)
R15R15: (sc ×5, dec) ×4(24 sts)
R16R16: (sc ×10, dec) ×2(22 sts)
R17R17: (sc ×9, dec) ×2(20 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×3, dec) ×4(16 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×2, dec) ×4(12 sts)
R20R20: (sc ×2, dec) ×3(9 sts)

Right ear

427 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc, inc) ×3(9 sts)
R3R3: inc, (sc, inc) ×4(14 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×6, inc) ×2(16 sts)
R5R5: (sc ×3, inc) ×4(20 sts)
R6R6: (sc ×4, inc) ×4(24 sts)
R7R7: (sc ×11, inc) ×2(26 sts)
R8R8: (sc ×12, inc) ×2(28 sts)
R9R9: (sc ×13, inc) ×2(30 sts)
R10R10: sc ×29, inc(31 sts)
R11R11: sc ×31(31 sts)
R12R12: sc ×31(31 sts)
R13R13: sc ×29, dec(30 sts)
R14R14: (sc ×13, dec) ×2(28 sts)
R15R15: (sc ×5, dec) ×4(24 sts)
R16R16: (sc ×10, dec) ×2(22 sts)
R17R17: (sc ×9, dec) ×2(20 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×3, dec) ×4(16 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×2, dec) ×4(12 sts)
R20R20: (sc ×2, dec) ×3(9 sts)

Front left leg

398 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×2, inc) ×4(16 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×3, inc) ×4(20 sts)
R5R5: sc ×19, inc(21 sts)
R6R6: sc ×21(21 sts)
R7R7: sc ×20, inc(22 sts)
R8R8: sc ×22(22 sts)
R9R9: sc ×22(22 sts)
R10R10: sc ×21, inc(23 sts)
R11R11: sc ×23(23 sts)
R12R12: sc ×23(23 sts)
R13R13: sc ×22, inc(24 sts)
R14R14: sc ×24(24 sts)
R15R15: sc ×24(24 sts)
R16R16: sc ×22, dec(23 sts)
R17R17: sc ×21, dec(22 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×9, dec) ×2(20 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×2, dec) ×5(15 sts)
R20R20: (sc, dec) ×5(10 sts)
R21R21: dec ×5(5 sts)

Front right leg

398 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×2, inc) ×4(16 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×3, inc) ×4(20 sts)
R5R5: sc ×19, inc(21 sts)
R6R6: sc ×21(21 sts)
R7R7: sc ×20, inc(22 sts)
R8R8: sc ×22(22 sts)
R9R9: sc ×22(22 sts)
R10R10: sc ×21, inc(23 sts)
R11R11: sc ×23(23 sts)
R12R12: sc ×23(23 sts)
R13R13: sc ×22, inc(24 sts)
R14R14: sc ×24(24 sts)
R15R15: sc ×24(24 sts)
R16R16: sc ×22, dec(23 sts)
R17R17: sc ×21, dec(22 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×9, dec) ×2(20 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×2, dec) ×5(15 sts)
R20R20: (sc, dec) ×5(10 sts)
R21R21: dec ×5(5 sts)

Back left leg

466 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc, inc) ×6(18 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×5, inc) ×3(21 sts)
R5R5: sc ×20, inc(22 sts)
R6R6: sc ×21, inc(23 sts)
R7R7: sc ×23(23 sts)
R8R8: sc ×22, inc(24 sts)
R9R9: sc ×23, inc(25 sts)
R10R10: sc ×25(25 sts)
R11R11: sc ×24, inc(26 sts)
R12R12: sc ×25, inc(27 sts)
R13R13: sc ×27(27 sts)
R14R14: sc ×26, inc(28 sts)
R15R15: sc ×28(28 sts)
R16R16: sc ×26, dec(27 sts)
R17R17: sc ×25, dec(26 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×11, dec) ×2(24 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×4, dec) ×4(20 sts)
R20R20: (sc ×3, dec) ×4(16 sts)
R21R21: (sc ×2, dec) ×4(12 sts)
R22R22: dec ×6(6 sts)

Back right leg

466 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc, inc) ×6(18 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×5, inc) ×3(21 sts)
R5R5: sc ×20, inc(22 sts)
R6R6: sc ×21, inc(23 sts)
R7R7: sc ×23(23 sts)
R8R8: sc ×22, inc(24 sts)
R9R9: sc ×23, inc(25 sts)
R10R10: sc ×25(25 sts)
R11R11: sc ×24, inc(26 sts)
R12R12: sc ×25, inc(27 sts)
R13R13: sc ×27(27 sts)
R14R14: sc ×26, inc(28 sts)
R15R15: sc ×28(28 sts)
R16R16: sc ×26, dec(27 sts)
R17R17: sc ×25, dec(26 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×11, dec) ×2(24 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×4, dec) ×4(20 sts)
R20R20: (sc ×3, dec) ×4(16 sts)
R21R21: (sc ×2, dec) ×4(12 sts)
R22R22: dec ×6(6 sts)

Left eye rim

42 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to cream.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc ×2, inc) ×2(8 sts)
R3R3: sc ×7, inc(9 sts)
R4R4: sc ×9(9 sts)
R5R5: (sc, dec) ×3(6 sts)
R6R6: (sc, dec) ×2(4 sts)

Right eye rim

42 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to cream.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc ×2, inc) ×2(8 sts)
R3R3: sc ×7, inc(9 sts)
R4R4: sc ×9(9 sts)
R5R5: (sc, dec) ×3(6 sts)
R6R6: (sc, dec) ×2(4 sts)

Tail

83 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: sc ×5, inc(7 sts)
R3R3: sc ×7(7 sts)
R4R4: sc ×7(7 sts)
R5R5: sc ×6, inc(8 sts)
R6R6: sc ×8(8 sts)
R7R7: sc ×8(8 sts)
R8R8: sc ×8(8 sts)
R9R9: sc ×8(8 sts)
R10R10: sc ×8(8 sts)
R11R11: sc ×8(8 sts)

Trunk

320 stitches. Sewn to Head and body. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc, inc) ×3(9 sts)
R3R3: (inc, sc, inc) ×3(15 sts)
R4R4: (sc ×4, inc) ×3(18 sts)
R5R5: (sc ×8, inc) ×2(20 sts)
R6R6: sc ×19, inc(21 sts)
R7R7: (sc ×5, dec) ×3(18 sts)
R8R8: sc ×16, dec(17 sts)
R9R9: sc ×17(17 sts)
R10R10: sc ×16, inc(18 sts)
R11R11: (sc ×8, inc) ×2(20 sts)
R12R12: sc ×19, inc(21 sts)
R13R13: sc ×20, inc(22 sts)
R14R14: sc ×22(22 sts)
R15R15: sc ×20, dec(21 sts)
R16R16: (sc ×5, dec) ×3(18 sts)
R17R17: (sc ×7, dec) ×2(16 sts)
R18R18: (sc ×2, dec) ×4(12 sts)
R19R19: (sc ×2, dec) ×3(9 sts)

Front left foot

148 stitches. Sewn to Front left leg. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring (this round runs through 2 lobes of the part: work it as 2 rings of 3 and 3 stitches, one after the other in that order, and carry the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next) Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×3, inc) ×3(15 sts)
R4R4: sc ×13, dec(14 sts)
R5R5: sc ×14(14 sts)
R6R6: sc ×13, inc(15 sts)
R7R7: sc ×14, inc(16 sts)
R8R8: sc ×14, dec(15 sts)
R9R9: sc ×13, dec(14 sts)
R10R10: (sc ×5, dec) ×2(12 sts)
R11R11: (sc ×2, dec) ×3(9 sts)
R12R12: (sc, dec) ×3(6 sts)

Front right foot

148 stitches. Sewn to Front right leg. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: inc ×6 (this round runs through 3 lobes of the part: work it as 3 rings of 5, 5 and 2 stitches, one after the other in that order, and carry the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next)(12 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×5, inc) ×2(14 sts)
R4R4: sc ×14(14 sts)
R5R5: sc ×14(14 sts)
R6R6: sc ×13, inc(15 sts)
R7R7: sc ×14, inc(16 sts)
R8R8: sc ×14, dec(15 sts)
R9R9: sc ×15(15 sts)
R10R10: (sc ×3, dec) ×3(12 sts)
R11R11: (sc ×4, dec) ×2(10 sts)
R12R12: dec ×5(5 sts)

Back left foot

151 stitches. Sewn to Back left leg. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring (this round runs through 2 lobes of the part: work it as 2 rings of 5 and 1 stitches, one after the other in that order, and carry the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next) Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc, inc) ×3 (this round runs through 2 lobes of the part: work it as 2 rings of 7 and 2 stitches, one after the other in that order, and carry the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next)(9 sts)
R3R3: inc, (sc, inc) ×4(14 sts)
R4R4: sc ×13, inc(15 sts)
R5R5: (sc ×3, dec) ×3(12 sts)
R6R6: (sc ×3, inc) ×3(15 sts)
R7R7: sc ×15(15 sts)
R8R8: sc ×14, inc(16 sts)
R9R9: sc ×14, dec(15 sts)
R10R10: sc ×13, dec(14 sts)
R11R11: (sc ×5, dec) ×2(12 sts)
R12R12: (sc, dec) ×4(8 sts)

Back right foot

144 stitches. Sewn to Back right leg. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to soft grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc, inc) ×3 (this round runs through 2 lobes of the part: work it as 2 rings of 8 and 1 stitches, one after the other in that order, and carry the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next)(9 sts)
R3R3: inc, (sc, inc) ×4(14 sts)
R4R4: sc ×14(14 sts)
R5R5: sc ×14(14 sts)
R6R6: sc ×13, inc(15 sts)
R7R7: sc ×14, inc(16 sts)
R8R8: sc ×14, dec(15 sts)
R9R9: sc ×13, dec(14 sts)
R10R10: (sc ×5, dec) ×2(12 sts)
R11R11: (sc ×4, dec) ×2(10 sts)
R12R12: dec ×5(5 sts)

Tail tuft

68 stitches. Sewn to Tail. Work in a spiral (do not join rounds) and mark the first stitch of the round.

R1R1: 6 sc in a magic ring Change to slate grey.(6 sts)
R2R2: (sc ×2, inc) ×2(8 sts)
R3R3: (sc ×3, inc) ×2(10 sts)
R4R4: sc ×9, inc(11 sts)
R5R5: sc ×11(11 sts)
R6R6: sc ×9, dec(10 sts)
R7R7: (sc ×3, dec) ×2(8 sts)
R8R8: dec ×4(4 sts)

Notes

What you are making: a standing baby elephant in worsted-weight yarn, about 145 mm (5.7 in) tall, 165 mm (6.5 in) wide across the ears and 216 mm (8.5 in) long from trunk tip to tail. Three things give it its character: a rounded head with the trunk sewn to the middle of the face and pointing forward, two big flat ears, and four thick legs that end in separate foot pads. The head and body are the only large piece (2,036 stitches over 49 rounds); the other 15 pieces are small caps and tubes. Everything is single crochet in a spiral from a magic ring, so there are no turning chains.
Where to start: make the head and body first, then the four legs and four feet, and sew the feet to the legs and the legs to the body before you touch the trunk or ears. An elephant is only convincing if it stands square on four legs, so settle that first. Put it on a table after sewing the legs: if it leans, unpick the leg that is off and move it, because the trunk and ears are light and will not correct a lopsided stance.
The trunk is the piece that makes it an elephant, and its shape is built into the rounds. It starts as a plump bulb at the tip (21 stitches), narrows to a slim section (17 stitches), swells again to 22 stitches, and then closes down to a 9-stitch opening that is sewn to the face. Stuff the tip bulb fully so it keeps its round shape, and stuff the rest firmly but not rock-hard, so the trunk can curve. Pin it to the middle of the face, pointing forward, and look at the elephant from the side before sewing: a slight upward sweep at the tip looks friendly, a droop looks sad.
Ears: each ear is a rounded pouch that grows to 31 stitches around and closes to a 9-stitch neck. Stuff them lightly, just enough to take away the wrinkles, because a flat ear looks right on an elephant and an over-stuffed one looks like a pillow. Sew each neck high on the side of the head, angled a little forward. If an ear flops, take two small stitches through its outer edge into the head, hidden in the yarn, to hold it out. Check from the front that the two ears sit at the same height and stick out the same amount; small differences show a lot on a face this round.
The feet are the fiddly part. Each foot pad has toe bumps, so some early rounds are worked as two or three small rings one after the other, carrying the yarn inside the stuffing from one ring to the next; the instruction on each foot says how many stitches go in each ring. Take it slowly, count each ring and keep a stitch marker in the first stitch. The four feet are not mirror images of each other (the left and right counts differ), so follow the section for each one rather than copying one foot four times.
Colour: the body, ears, legs, feet, trunk and tail are all soft grey, which is 5,625 of the 5,777 stitches and about 119 yd of yarn, so buy enough of the same dye lot to finish the whole animal. The two eye rims are cream and the tail tuft is a darker slate grey, and each of those takes only about 2 yd; the eyes are embroidered in black after all the sewing is done. The same pattern works in a pastel blue with a darker blue tuft if you prefer; only the yarn changes, not a single stitch count.
Stuffing: fill the head and body firmly, then close the gap, because it carries the weight of the ears and trunk. Push stuffing into the legs one small handful at a time until each leg is firm all the way down, so it can stand by itself. Use worsted yarn with a 4 mm hook, a size under what the label suggests, so the stitches are tight and the grey stuffing does not show through the fabric.
For a child under three, keep every detail embroidered, as here: no safety eyes and no buttons. The trunk, ears, legs and tail are all sewn, so sew each one round its full opening, twice for the legs, and test them with a firm tug before you give the toy away. The tail tuft is the smallest piece (30 mm), so make sure it is sewn on firmly.
Changing the size: the counts are for worsted yarn with a 4 mm hook, at about 5 mm per single crochet. Thinner yarn gives a smaller elephant (roughly 4.5 inches tall in DK weight) and thicker yarn a bigger one (roughly 7 inches tall in bulky weight), and you will need less or more yarn than stated. Use the same yarn and hook for every piece so the parts still fit together.
Is this a beginner pattern? It is a good second or third amigurumi rather than a first. You need a magic ring, single crochet, increases and decreases, and to be able to sew a stuffed piece on neatly. The head and body are long but regular, and the rest is easy; the four foot pads, the placement of the ears and trunk and keeping the elephant standing straight are where beginners will need patience.
Care: spot clean with a damp cloth. For a full wash, put the elephant in a pillowcase, wash on a delicate cycle in cool water or by hand, press out the water in a towel and let it dry flat, turning it from time to time. Make sure it is completely dry before it goes back on a shelf or into a cot, because damp stuffing can smell.
Checking your work: the interactive 3D preview on this page lets you turn the finished elephant around and see how the ears, trunk and legs sit. Use it before you sew anything on, since each piece's section below says which piece it is sewn to and where on it. Compare the trunk and ear angles in the preview with your pinned pieces from the front and from the side.
Make the parts in the order of the sections. A part is sewn to the one it names, which is always made before it.
Stuff firmly before closing or sewing a part: it should be full and hold its shape. Pin each part in place and check the look from the front before sewing; weave the ends in.
Left eye on Head and body, black, about 13 mm across, high, 74 mm up, on the left, towards the front: embroider it, or sew on a small piece of felt or yarn. Add it last, after the stuffing and sewing, so you can place it by eye.
Right eye on Head and body, black, about 13 mm across, high, 74 mm up, on the right, towards the front: embroider it, or sew on a small piece of felt or yarn. Add it last, after the stuffing and sewing, so you can place it by eye.
The yarn amounts are an estimate from the stitch count; buy a little extra.