Linked Double Crochet (LDC): The Gapless Double Crochet Stitch for Cozy, Dense Blankets and Wearables

If you’ve ever loved the speed and height of double crochet (dc) but hated the ladder-like gaps between stitches, linked double crochet (LDC) is the fix. By “linking” each double crochet to the one before it, you remove the YO space that causes holes in typical dc rows. The result: a dense, warm, and almost gapless fabric that’s ideal for baby blankets, throws, cardigans, and any project where privacy, warmth, or structure matters. It’s a smart, highly controllable technique that experienced crocheters can wield to tune drape and gauge precisely. [1][2]

In this comprehensive guide you’ll learn exactly how to work LDC (with step-by-step instructions), how to start the first row from a chain or without one, turning-chain math that produces flat edges, how to swatch and read gauge for LDC, how LDC changes drape compared with dc and hdc, and how to adapt patterns. You’ll also get troubleshooting tips, shaping guidance, and references.

What Is Linked Double Crochet?

Linked double crochet is a variation of the standard US double crochet that replaces the initial yarn over (YO) with a loop drawn from the “link bar” of the previous stitch. In practical terms:

• Regular dc: YO, insert in next stitch, YO pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO pull through 2, YO pull through 2.
• Linked dc: Pull up the first loop from the horizontal/vertical bar of the previous dc (instead of a YO), insert in next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), YO pull through 2, YO pull through 2. [2][3]

That simple change tethers each stitch to its neighbor and closes the gap created by the YO. The fabric lies flatter, looks more cohesive, and resists stretching between columns.

Two common linking points are used:

• The front horizontal bar just below the top loops of the previous dc (my preference for consistency and ease).
• The front-left vertical bar of the previous dc post (also widely taught; the look is nearly identical when tension is even). [2][4]

Either works. Pick one and stick with it for a uniform fabric.

Why Choose LDC? Pros and Cons

Pros

• Gapless rows: Eliminates the YO hole in standard dc. Perfect for baby blankets, pillows, and non-see-through garments. [2]
• Dense warmth: More windproof and cozier than dc at the same hook size; closer to hdc in opacity, but taller than hdc. [3]
• Excellent stitch definition: Neat vertical columns with minimized laddering; post stitches ‘‘read’’ clearly.
• Straighter edges: With the right turning-chain method, edges stay tidy and strong for borders and seaming.

Cons (and how to mitigate)

• Less drape than dc: The tethering reduces swing. Upsize your hook or choose a drapier yarn (bamboo, silk blends) if needed. [2][5]
• Slight learning curve: Finding and piercing the link bar becomes automatic with practice.
• Possible bias or tightness: If you pull the link loop too tight, fabric may bias or pucker. Relax your linking pull-up.

Skill Level and Use Cases

• Skill level: Confident beginner to intermediate. If you can make dc and recognize stitch anatomy, you can learn LDC quickly.
• Best for: Baby blankets, sofa throws, scarves and cowls, winter cardigans, bags, and anywhere you want solid coverage.
• Good alternatives: If you need more drape and still want low gaps, try hdc, extended hdc, or dc with a larger hook; if you want zero gaps with maximum firmness, consider dense stitches like sc or waistcoat stitch (knit stitch), though they’re slower. [1]

Anatomy: Where to Link

Look at a finished dc. Just under the top V (front and back loops) is a small horizontal bar that spans the top of the post. That’s the easiest consistent target for LDC linking. You’ll insert your hook under that bar to pull up the first loop of the next stitch. Alternatively, you can use the front-left vertical leg of the dc post (it’s the strand formed by the initial YO of a dc). Both are valid; choose the one that feels natural and gives you a clean line. [2][4]

Tip: If you’re not sure you’re grabbing the correct strand, tug the top of the previous stitch gently; the bar you want will pop forward.

Abbreviations and Terms (US crochet)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• ldc: linked double crochet (this tutorial)
• ldc2tog: linked dc two together (decrease)

References in this article use US terms as standardized by the Craft Yarn Council. [1]

The Core Technique: Linked Double Crochet (Row Work)

We’ll cover two start methods: from a base chain and from a foundation (no-chain) start. Use the first if you’re adapting existing patterns; the second if you prefer tidy edges and consistent elasticity from row one.

Method A: Starting Row 1 from a Base Chain

Use this when following a dc pattern you’re converting to LDC.

• Setup: Decide how many stitches you want in Row 1, call this W.
• Foundation chain: ch W + 2.

Row 1

1. Identify the 2nd chain from the hook. Insert your hook into the back bump of that chain and pull up a loop. This is your link loop (replaces YO).
2. Insert hook into the back bump of the 3rd chain from the hook and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on hook.
3. YO, pull through 2. YO, pull through 2. First ldc complete; it sits in the 3rd chain from the hook.
4. For each subsequent stitch across the row: insert under the link bar of the previous ldc, pull up a loop; insert into the next chain back bump, pull up a loop; YO pull through 2, YO pull through 2.

You will work one ldc into each remaining chain. Because you began in the 3rd chain of a W+2 initial chain, you will finish with exactly W stitches in Row 1. [2]

Turn.

Row 2 and beyond (with a no-gap edge, see Turning-Chain Options below for rationale)

1. ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). This chain is just to give you the natural first link.
2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook, pull up a loop (your link loop).
3. Insert into the first stitch of the row below (under both top loops unless your pattern says otherwise), pull up a loop. YO pull through 2, YO pull through 2. First ldc made.
4. For the next and all remaining stitches: insert under the link bar of the previous ldc, draw up a loop; insert into the next stitch, draw up a loop; YO through 2, YO through 2.

This ch-2-does-not-count approach yields straight, gapless edges and consistent row heights. [2][3]

Method B: Foundation Linked Double Crochet (No Starting Chain)

Foundation stitches form the chain and the first row simultaneously, producing stretchier, more even lower edges—great for blankets and garments. [1]

Foundation ldc (fldc) recipe

1. Ch 3 loosely.
2. Insert hook into the 2nd chain from the hook; pull up a loop (link loop).
3. Insert hook into the 3rd chain from the hook; pull up a loop. 3 loops on hook.
4. YO, pull through 1 loop (this creates the foundation chain for stitch 1). YO, pull through 2; YO, pull through 2. First fldc done.
5. For each additional fldc: insert under the link bar of the previous fldc; pull up a loop. Insert into the bottom ‘chain’ of the previous fldc (the stitch’s foundation chain you created in step 4), pull up a loop. YO, pull through 1 (new foundation chain), then YO through 2, YO through 2.

Count carefully; use stitch markers every 20 stitches to keep track.

Turning-Chain Math and Edge Options

Your edge method determines whether your rows lean, gap, or stay crisp. Here are the options, with pros/cons and my recommendations.

• Option A: ch-2 does not count; first ldc built from that chain (Recommended)

  • How: ch 2; insert in 2nd ch from hook to draw link loop; insert in first stitch of row; finish ldc.
  • Pros: No gap at the edge; edge is strong and straight. Easy stitch counting (your stitch total per row equals the number you intend). [2]
  • Cons: Requires attention to that first stitch so you don’t accidentally skip it.

• Option B: ch-1 + stacked sc (or chainless starting dc) as first stitch; then link off it

  • How: ch 1, make a stacked sc (or standing dc) as height; link the next ldc into the bar of the stacked stitch.
  • Pros: Beautifully gapless and sturdy. Many garment designers favor stacked sc as a dc substitute. [5]
  • Cons: Slightly more advanced; the stacked stitch can look taller/shorter with some hands.

• Option C: ch-3 counts as a stitch

  • How: ch 3, treat it as the first dc; link the next ldc by pulling the link from the 2nd ch of the ch-3.
  • Pros: Familiar to dc users.
  • Cons: Most likely to leave a gap and create a looser edge; LDC’s whole point is gap control, so I rarely recommend this for blankets.

My take: For flat, blanket-friendly edges, Option A wins. It’s consistent, easy to count, and produces a border-ready selvedge.

Gauge: How to Swatch LDC and Predict Fabric Behavior

Because LDC removes the YO space, it’s denser than dc at the same hook size. In many hands, LDC’s stitch gauge (stitches per width) ends up a touch tighter than dc, and its row gauge (rows per height) ends up a hair taller than hdc but shorter than dc. Translation: LDC tends to sit between dc and hdc in both openness and height. [2][3]

But gauge is personal. The only reliable method is to swatch.

Swatch recipe

• Yarn: Use your project yarn (e.g., a #4 medium/worsted).
• Hooks: Start with the hook size you’d normally use for dc in that yarn and have at least one larger and one smaller size nearby.
• Make a 6–7 in (15–18 cm) square in LDC using your chosen edge method. Work more than you need so you can measure the center, away from edges.
• Block the swatch the way you’ll treat the final item: steam for acrylics (light touch), wet block for wool, etc.
• Measure over 4 in (10 cm) both horizontally and vertically.

Interpretation

• If you’re getting too-stiff fabric: Go up 0.5–1.5 mm in hook size or switch to a yarn with more drape (rayon/bamboo/silk blends). [5]
• If you want a denser baby blanket: Keep your hook size or even drop 0.25–0.5 mm to maximize coziness.

Craft Yarn Council keeps standard references for yarn weights and typical hook sizes; consult their ranges as a sanity check when picking a starting hook for swatching. [1]

Drape: LDC vs dc vs hdc

• dc: Airy, fast, drapey—but gappy, especially in smooth yarns or larger hooks.
• hdc: Denser and shorter than dc, less gappy, good all-rounder for garments.
• ldc: Similar density to a firm hdc but with dc-like height. The fabric is cohesive and warm, with much less “swing” than dc. For blankets and structured garments, this is great. For fluid drape (e.g., shawls), either upsize the hook (often by 0.75–1.25 mm) or mix in eyelet rows. [2][3][5]

If in doubt, compare swatches: 20 rows of dc, 20 rows of hdc, 20 rows of ldc in the same yarn and hook. You’ll see the drape gradient immediately.

Step-by-Step: A Practice Swatch in LDC (Rows)

Use US terms; link under the previous stitch’s horizontal bar.

1. With worsted yarn, ch 22.
2. Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook (back bump), pull up loop (link). Insert in 3rd ch from hook (back bump), pull up loop. YO, pull through 2; YO, pull through 2. First ldc made. Continue: link under bar, insert in next chain, complete ldc across. You’ll have 20 sts.
3. Row 2: ch 2 (does not count), insert in 2nd ch from hook, pull up loop (link), insert in first st, pull up loop, finish ldc. Ldc in each st across, linking each new st to the bar of the previous st. 20 sts.
4. Repeat Row 2 for 4–6 inches.

Tips

• Keep the linking pull-up relaxed; yanking it tight will skew your row.
• Insert under both top loops for standard tension unless your pattern specifies back loop only (blo) for a rib effect.
• Place markers in the first and last stitch of the row for the first few inches to train your eyes.

Getting Dead-Straight Edges

• Use ch-2-does-not-count for turns (Option A above). [2]
• Always work the first stitch of the row in the first stitch (not the second!). Your turning ch is not a stitch.
• At row end, your last ldc goes under both loops of the final stitch. If you’re accident-prone here, place a marker in that stitch as soon as you turn.
• Count every few rows until muscle memory forms. The most common mistake is losing a stitch at one edge and adding a stitch at the other.

Increases and Decreases in LDC

Shaping is straightforward once you understand where the link loop comes from.

• Increase (inc): Work 2 ldc into the same stitch. For the second ldc, link from the bar of the first ldc you just made (even though both share the same base stitch). This maintains the linked look while widening by one stitch.

• Decrease (ldc2tog): You can either work a standard dc2tog (accepting a tiny gap), or fully link both legs of the decrease for a cohesive fabric. Here’s a fully linked ldc2tog:

  1. Pull up a link loop from the bar of the previous stitch.
  2. Insert into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO, pull through 2. You’ve made the first half of a dc.
  3. Now pull the next link loop from the bar of the partial dc you just made (its bar is right under the top loops). Insert into the next stitch, pull up a loop. YO, pull through 2. You now have 3 loops on the hook.
  4. YO, pull through all 3 loops to finish the decrease.

This method preserves the linked aesthetic and avoids the characteristic dc2tog hole. [2][4]

Working LDC in the Round

You can work LDC in joined rounds or as a spiral. Two caveats:

• Joined rounds: Use a standing ldc to start a new round for the cleanest seam. Standing ldc: with new yarn or after a sl st join, pull up a tall loop equal to dc height, hold it, insert under the link bar of the previous stitch (or simulate it by pinching the tall loop), pull up a loop in the target stitch, then finish as a dc. From the second stitch onward, link normally. [5]
• Spiral rounds: Because each stitch links to the previous, a spiral round can drift slightly. If you see bias, add a ‘break link’ once per round (work one normal dc without linking) at a consistent seam location to reset. Alternatively, use joined rounds for absolutely straight columns.

For hats, cowls, and sleeves, joined rounds with a standing ldc start produce the tidiest results.

Pattern Adaptation: Converting dc Patterns to LDC

• Starting chain math: If the pattern says ch W + 3 and dc in 4th ch from hook (first ch-3 counts as dc), convert to LDC by chaining W + 2 and working the first ldc as shown above (link from 2nd ch, stitch into 3rd ch). Your row will still have W stitches.
• Turning chain: Replace any dc row’s ch-3 turning chain with ch-2 that does not count, then build your first ldc from that chain.
• Stitch multiples: Most stitch patterns using dc multiples (e.g., multiples of 3 + 2) adapt cleanly to ldc. Just maintain the same stitch count and placement. Be aware: shell and V-stitches made in ldc will be denser and smaller; you may need to increase hook size to keep the same width.
• Borders: Because LDC edges are firm, borders sit nicely. If a dc border feels too airy next to LDC fabric, switch to hdc, linen stitch, or a crab stitch edging for a crisp frame.

Yarn and Hook Choices: Tuning Drape and Hand

• Plush blankets: Acrylic, superwash wool, or cotton-acrylic blends with a hook one size larger than you’d normally use for dc creates cozy, smooth LDC with minimal stiffness.
• Baby blankets: Soft acrylics and bamboo blends are excellent; upsize the hook 0.5–1.0 mm to maintain gentle drape while keeping gaps closed.
• Garments: DK or sport weight with a larger-than-usual hook (often +1.0 mm) keeps LDC wearable. Test armhole and hem drape aggressively in swatches. [5]
• Texture and color: Solid or semi-solid yarns showcase LDC’s clean columns; speckles can mask the linked structure but still benefit from the gapless density.

Troubleshooting and Best Practices

• Holes between rows at the edges: Switch to the ch-2-does-not-count turning method and ensure your first stitch goes in the first stitch of the row.
• Tight, pinched rows or bias: Loosen the link-loop pull-up. You want that loop to be the same height as a gentle YO would be.
• Wavy bottom edge from a chain start: Use the back bumps of the chain or switch to foundation LDC for a more elastic, even lower edge. [1]
• Uneven height first stitch: Try stacked sc or a standing ldc at row/round starts. [5]
• Can’t find the link bar: Tilt your work slightly toward you. The link bar sits just under the V at the top of the previous stitch. If you still struggle, try linking into the front-left vertical bar; it’s a bigger target. [2]

Variations and Advanced Notes

• Fully linked double crochet: Some crocheters simulate two linked YOs (closest analog to a linked treble concept) for even denser fabric. It’s rarely necessary; standard LDC is already gapless.
• Linked half double crochet (lhdc): Similar idea at hdc height—great for ultra-dense garments and baby items.
• Linked treble (ltr): Outstanding for tall stitches without the characteristic tr laddering; useful in lace when you want height but fewer gaps. [2]
• Back-loop-only LDC: Produces subtle horizontal ribbing with excellent elasticity. Great for cuffs and blankets that need stretch.

A Simple LDC Baby Blanket Recipe (Custom Size)

This is a framework, not a full pattern—use it to dial in your size and drape.

Materials

• Yarn: DK or worsted, quantity per desired size
• Hook: Start 0.75–1.0 mm larger than your usual dc hook for the yarn; adjust after swatching
• Notions: 2 stitch markers, tapestry needle

Swatch first

• Make a 6 in square in LDC using your chosen hook and edge method; block and measure.
• Suppose your blocked swatch yields 15 sts and 10 rows per 4 in (example only—measure yours!).

Width math

• Desired blanket width = 36 in. Stitches per inch = 15 / 4 = 3.75.
• Target starting stitches W ≈ 36 × 3.75 = 135 sts. Round to an even number if you prefer symmetry.

Start

• Ch W + 2. Work Row 1 LDC in 3rd ch from hook, link from 2nd ch, then across. Turn.
• Row 2 and beyond: ch 2 (does not count), first ldc built from ch-2, then ldc across. Repeat to length.
• Border: 1 round hdc, 1 round linen stitch, and 1 round reverse sc (crab stitch) for a clean frame.

This produces a dense, cozy blanket with tidy selvedges that accept borders gracefully.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Does LDC work with any yarn weight? Yes. The denser character is more noticeable in heavier yarns. In lace weights, LDC still reduces gaps but remains airy.

• Can I mix LDC with other stitches? Absolutely. Alternating rows of LDC and hdc can balance density and drape. Post-stitch textures (fpdc/bpdc) also pair well with LDC columns.

• Is LDC slower than dc? Slightly at first while your eyes learn the link bar. Most crocheters reach near-dc speed quickly.

• Can I block LDC? Yes. Block as appropriate for the fiber: steam acrylic lightly; wet block wool and plant fibers. Blocking helps relax link tension and evens columns. [5]

Opinionated Takeaways

• For blankets, LDC is the dc you wish existed: same height, far fewer holes.
• Use ch-2-does-not-count turns. It’s the cleanest edge solution for LDC blankets and most garments.
• Swatch aggressively and don’t be afraid to go up a full millimeter in hook size; restoring drape while retaining LDC’s opacity is often the sweet spot.
• When adapting dc patterns, retain stitch counts but assume your LDC fabric will be denser. Gauge first, then adjust.

References and Further Learning

• [1] Craft Yarn Council: Standards & Guidelines (abbreviations, yarn weights, typical gauges). https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards
• [2] Edie Eckman, Linked Stitches tutorials and explanations. https://www.edieeckman.com (search “linked stitches” / “linked double crochet”)
• [3] Interweave/Long Thread Media, Linked Stitches articles (why and how they reduce gaps and change fabric behavior). https://www.interweave.com (search “linked stitches crochet”)
• [4] Moogly, Linked Double Crochet tutorial with photos. https://www.mooglyblog.com (search “linked double crochet”)
• [5] The Spruce Crafts, Linked Double Crochet photo tutorial and general blocking/drape guidance. https://www.thesprucecrafts.com (search “linked double crochet”)

Note: URLs are provided for topic discovery; exact page paths may change over time. The named sources are long-standing references on crochet technique and standards.

Summary

Linked double crochet is a practical, gapless alternative to standard dc. It yields denser, warmer fabric with clean columns and tidy edges—ideal for baby blankets and structured garments. With a simple linking motion under the previous stitch’s bar and a ch-2-does-not-count turning method, you can build professional, border-ready edges. Expect less drape than dc; counter with a larger hook or drapier yarns. Swatch, measure, and adjust before committing—and enjoy the satisfying cohesion of LDC in your next blanket.